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Jan. 31, 2025, 7:37 a.m.

Ukrainian Designer Olha Soliarchuk: Crafting Beauty Amid War

Цей матеріал також доступний українською

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Photo provided by the interviewee

Photo provided by the interviewee

Kherson-based Olha Soliarchuk is a designer and jewelry maker with 20 years of experience. For a long time, she worked abroad making jewelry. But during one of her visits to her hometown, she found another way of creative expression - beaded jewelry. She compares this process to painting. During the full-scale war, the collections created by Olha popularize Ukrainian culture around the world and help Ukrainian women feel "beautiful and alive" again. Read more about art as a tool for comprehensive support in the article by Intent.

"Hook and thread became my weapon"

Olha Soliarchuk witnessed the full-scale invasion of Ukraine by the Russian army and the occupation of Kherson region during a planned two-week trip to the United States. All materials and tools were left at home. All Olga had was her knowledge and skills.

"With my first 'free' money, I bought a crochet hook and thread of two colors: yellow and blue. It was much cheaper than the beads and equipment for them. In addition, I really wanted to make something patriotic for myself, so that people would see the product and immediately identify me as a Ukrainian. And I have been knitting since childhood," says Olha.

These three components formed the basis of Olga Soliarchuk's first collection, Glory to Ukraine, which was created during the war. It includes knitted covers for phones, tablets, laptops, and small hearts for car mirrors. All of the items were made in national colors, with a coat of arms or a flag. The craftswoman did not sell them, but gave them as gifts.


Photo provided by the interviewee

"At that time, I was not even morally ready to create something else. I only wanted to knit our flags and coats of arms and distribute them. It was as if I was trying to replace all the Ukrainian symbols torn down or destroyed by the Russian military in the occupied South. I remember that I kept saying: "Well, I'll impose some more on you!". So the hook and thread actually became my weapon," the Kherson woman recalls.

This went on for a year. At the same time, Olha helped many women learn to knit similar items, explaining certain techniques or features of the process. Some of them contacted her personally, others simply took her patterns from her social media pages as a basis. The craftswoman does not hide the fact that she was pleased to receive feedback, because for many people, needlework has become a moral inspiration, a kind of respite for the soul and consolation.

In the end, Olha Soliarchuk decided to return to beadwork and create something authentic, but in a modern Ukrainian way. She harmoniously wove her favorite floral theme into the idea, making plants not just a "through thread" but the central composition of the jewelry. This is how theFlowers of Free Ukraine gerdan collection was born.

A gerdan is a neck beaded jewelry in the form of a narrow ribbon made of multi-colored beads strung on a thread or hair base, forming a colorful geometric and sometimes floral ornament.

How one collection captured the spirit of the entire South

"Flowers of Free Ukraine is not just a collection," notes Olga Soliarchuk. It is unique in its idea, purpose and process of realization. The impetus for the jewelry was a message to the Ukrainian woman from a French entrepreneur.

"Before the full-scale war, I repeatedly made shows in France and Italy. These were designer handbags and various beaded items. That's why I still have many friends and partners in these countries. And then an acquaintance of an acquaintance saw my work on the Internet or word of mouth just worked, I honestly still don't know how it happened. So this foreigner just wrote to me and offered to organize a show. At the time, Kherson was still occupied, I didn't have any jewelry with me, and I said: "Yes, I agree, I can do it," says Olha.

A few months after this conversation, the right-bank part of the Kherson region was de-occupied and the artist was able to come home to take some of the works for the collection. She does not hide the fact that there were no more than ten gerdans. Therefore, they became a small addition to the newly created jewelry.

"I bought most of the pieces for this collection from other craftswomen of our South. I didn't create them, I just added them. And this is a very interesting and rewarding process. In addition to presenting the diversity of our creative heritage, I helped women earn money, which was the main source of income for many during the war. It was important to me. Because as a creative person, I myself believed for a long time that no one needed my work at the moment. So it's also about mutual support and motivation," says Olga Soliarchuk.


Showing the collection in Marseille. Photo provided by the interviewee

Among the works presented are jewelry made according to the designs of an artist from the left bank of the Kherson region. These items are separated into a separate part because they prove that Ukrainian culture does not fade away even under Russian occupation.

In total, the collection includes about 100 gerdans. Corner and choker-shaped, large and small, of different color shades and patterns, representing a single flower or bouquet - none of the items have any repetitions.

The Kherson woman explains the concept of the collection as follows: "I won't hide the fact that gerdan fascinated me only during the war. I felt that this jewelry was not just a Ukrainian heritage, but the protection of a woman's soul. When you put it on, you feel cozy, light and pleasant. And the flowers, because in the midst of these terrible realities, we have forgotten about the everyday life in the form of flowers. It's always a nice gift that can make your eyes sparkle."

"Jewelry that does things that are not typical for them"

Olha Soliarchuk shares that her beaded jewelry, as it turned out, can work as an art therapy tool. The artist emphasizes that the idea of the collection was revealed and fully realized during the shows in the frontline regions. Almost all the events took place in shelters, and while music was playing indoors, the sounds of air raids and explosions were heard outside. The models were ordinary women, local residents of different ages and professions.

"At first, I wanted to support the women from Kherson, my fellow countrymen. But I had some doubts, because my vision of this idea, due to my living abroad, could be different from those who are constantly in military realities. So when the idea of holding a screening in Kherson came up, I called my sister and friends who currently live in the city and asked their opinion. And I received a very positive reaction. In particular, just imagine, one woman said that she really wanted to take part, but she didn't have shoes. And she is from Antonivka, a suburb in the red zone. But she was ready to go there to get them. She also needed to go to the hairdresser. I'm sorry, but it really gives me the creeps...", says the master.

It should be noted that women became models at these shows both on purpose and by accident. For example, for one of the shows in Kherson, Olha involved a journalist she met while preparing a story about the event. The youngest model was only 12 years old. The girl came with her mother, and when Olga saw the child's eyes looking at the jewelry and heard her request to try it on, she invited her to join in directly. Another event was organized with the participation of women staying at a local crisis center or shelter for victims of domestic violence.

The artist adds that she remembers each of these women and can tell many stories. She also notes what they all have in common: "They opened up and were filled with light from within. I don't know how to describe it properly, but I know for sure that these screenings were able to bring the women back to their pre-war lives, even for a short time. They didn't just enjoy the process or a certain mood, but were revived, remembered their natural beauty, softness and tenderness, and regained their faith in themselves. And this result was the greatest reward for me. Because it is important not to lose yourself."


Showing the collection in Kanah. Photo courtesy of the interviewee

The Flowers of a Free Ukraine collection was presented in the summer of 2024 in Cannes and Marseille in France. The jewelry was in great demand among foreign audiences.
There is a photographic project that photographer Oleksandr Korniakov helped Olga Soliarchuk to realize.

The photographs show Kherson women wearing gerdans at iconic locations in the city, some of which have been damaged by Russian shelling. Olga says this is not just a flash mob, but a symbol of Kherson's revival. Because the war will definitely end and the city will flourish again.

"I have just started selling jewelry from this collection. I do it both at charity auctions, where I use the proceeds to support the Armed Forces of Ukraine, and for myself to invest in my next ideas. I am already working on another collection, which I plan to present this spring in Kherson. I would really like this show to take place on the street, under a peaceful sky," summarizes Ms. Olha.

Ігор Льов

Яніна Надточа

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