02 August 2026

The Amazing South: Dzharylgach—An Island of Shifting Shores

(Dzharylgach. PHOTO: kpi.ua)

Dzharylgach is Ukraine’s largest uninhabited island and one of the most valuable natural areas in the Northern Black Sea region, holding significance for nature conservation not only nationally but also internationally. It is a patch of land in the middle of the Black Sea where marine, steppe, and wetland ecosystems converge. With this story about this unique place, Intent continues its ongoing series “The Amazing South.”

An Island of Untouched Nature

Dzharylgach is located in the northwestern part of the Black Sea near the coast of the Kherson region. It covers an area of over 60 km² and is approximately 42 kilometers long, making it one of the largest islands in the Black Sea.

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Dzharylgach. PHOTO: dzharylgach.com

Dzharylgach is an accretionary island—its shores and topography were formed as a result of centuries-long geological processes involving the accumulation of sand deposits. As a result, the island has an unstable coastline and is subject to transformation—it constantly changes its contours under the influence of external factors. This is precisely why the island is called “living” or dynamic.

The surface of Dzharylgach consists of sand dunes, steppe areas, salt lakes, estuaries, and wetlands. The island’s coastline is bordered by two bays. On the northern side lies the Dzharylgach Bay, while the southern side opens onto the open and deep waters of the Karkinitsky Bay.

Dzharylgach Bay

The Dzharylgach Bay is located between the coast of the Kherson region and Dzharylgach Island. The bay is 70 km long and 20 km wide. It is considered a shallow bay. Its maximum depth is 8 m, and the average depth ranges from 1 to 5 m. To the east, Dzharylgach Bay connects to Karkinitsky Bay, and to the northeast, it borders Karzhinsky Bay. The depth increases from west to east. No rivers flow into this bay.

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Dzharylgach Bay. PHOTO: wikimapia.org

The 2,469 hectares of the bay’s waters, together with Dzharylgach Island, form the Dzharylgach Natural Complex, which, according to the Ramsar Convention, is of great international conservation and scientific importance and is part of the Dzharylgach National Nature Park, established in 2009. This nature complex is part of the seasonal bird migration route from Asia to Europe. Along the bay’s shores, 248 species of birds nest, winter, and stop over during their migration.

Thanks to its shallow waters, clean water, and numerous natural coves, the bay has become a hub of life for many species of fish, mollusks, waterfowl, and marine plants. The most notable inhabitants of the gulf’s waters include rock shrimp and grass shrimp, two dozen species of crabs, as well as sterlet and sevruga, which are listed in Ukraine’s Red Book. In the Dzharylgach Bay, as in the Karkinitsky Bay, three species of cetaceans can be found: the white-beaked dolphin, the bottlenose dolphin, and the Black Sea porpoise.

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Dolphins near Dzharylgach Island. PHOTO: wondersholidays.com

A distinctive feature of the Dzharylgach Bay is the combination of marine and estuarine natural conditions. The bay’s shores are covered with reeds, salt marsh vegetation, and sand spits, which form unique natural landscapes.

Karkinitsky Bay

Karkinitska Bay is one of the largest and most valuable natural bodies of water in the Black Sea, located between mainland Ukraine and the northwestern coast of the Crimean Peninsula. It is distinguished by its considerable area, diverse landscapes, and rich natural resources. The bay is nearly 118 km long. The depth in the western part reaches 36 m, and in the eastern part—up to 10 m. The bay combines shallow-water areas, sandbars, silty bottom sediments, and numerous coastal ecosystems, creating favorable conditions for the existence of many species of flora and fauna.

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Karkinitska Bay. PHOTO: usm.media

The bay’s natural features have been shaped over millennia by marine processes, resulting in a diverse range of coastal landforms and seabed topography. The relatively calm, nutrient-rich waters promote the development of underwater ecosystems and support high biological diversity.

The waters of Karkinitsky Bay are also of great ecological importance. It serves as a spawning and feeding ground for many fish species, as well as an important stopover for migratory birds during their seasonal migrations. The coast and waters of the bay are home to numerous species of wetland fauna, and certain plant and animal species are protected under environmental legislation.

The Origin of the Island’s Name

The name “Dzharylgach” is of Turkic origin. Most researchers associate it with the words “yaryl” or “jaryl,” meaning “split” or “divided,” and “agach,” meaning “tree.” One theory suggests that the name translates to “burnt trees” or “split forest.” Such place names were characteristic of the Crimean Khanate, which for a long time included the coastal territories of modern-day Kherson Oblast.

Despite the absence of dense forests, in ancient times the island may have been home to scattered stands of trees or accumulated driftwood carried by the sea, which could have influenced the formation of its name.

Dzharylgach in Antiquity

Archaeological findings indicate that the waters around the island were known even to ancient Greek sailors. Beginning in the 7th–6th centuries BCE, Greek colonists actively settled the coast of the Northern Black Sea region, establishing trading settlements and ports.

It is speculated that Dzharylgach itself may have served as one of the natural landmarks for ships sailing to Olbia and other ancient cities. Shallow bays allowed ships to weather storms, replenish their fresh water supplies, and carry out minor repairs.

Ancient Greek geographers described the islands of the Northern Black Sea region as important navigational points. Although there are few direct written references to Dzharylgach specifically, researchers associate it with certain geographical features marked on ancient maps.

The Medieval Period

After the decline of the ancient colonies, the territory repeatedly came under the control of various peoples—the Sarmatians, Goths, Huns, Khazars, Pechenegs, Polovtsians, and Tatars. The island remained almost uninhabited, but was actively used by fishermen, hunters, and nomadic tribes as a seasonal hunting and fishing ground. During the era of the Crimean Khanate, Dzharylgach was part of the economic exploitation of the Black Sea coast. 

Dzharylgach in the 20th Century

During the Soviet period, the island—which officially appeared on maps under this name after the Black Sea region was annexed by the Russian Empire—hosted fishing operations and seasonal vacation camps, and scientific research on its flora and fauna was conducted there.

Sand steppes, salt marshes, wetlands, lakes, and unique coastal ecosystems have formed on the island. Dzharylgach became a refuge for hundreds of species of migratory birds, as well as populations of red deer, mouflon, and fallow deer, which were acclimatized on the island at one time.

In the second half of the 20th century, increasing attention was paid to nature conservation efforts. The preservation of the island’s ecosystems became one of the priority areas of Ukrainian zoology (the science of nature conservation).

National Nature Park

In 1923, Dzharylgach became part of the “Askania-Nova” Nature Reserve, but this status was later revoked. In 1974, the “Dzharylgach” Nature Reserve was established in the northwestern part of the island. In 1997, efforts to create a national park resumed, and it was not until 2009 that this project was brought to fruition. Thus, the “Dzharylgach” National Nature Park was born. Its primary goal is to preserve the unique marine, steppe, coastal, and historical-cultural complexes and sites of the Black Sea region.

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The lake and vegetation on Dzharylgach Island. PHOTO: Sviatoslav Havryliuk

The park encompasses not only the island itself but also a significant portion of the adjacent marine waters. It is home to dozens of rare animal and plant species listed in Ukraine’s Red Book and international conservation lists. The island has also become popular among ecotourists thanks to its snow-white beaches, crystal-clear water, and nearly untouched nature.

Unique Biodiversity

The island of Dzharylgach’s greatest value lies in its rich flora and fauna. Hundreds of plant species grow here, many of which are rare or protected by the state. Large areas are covered by steppe communities characteristic of Ukraine’s southern regions, as well as coastal vegetation adapted to saline soils.

The local fauna is equally diverse. The island is home to numerous species of mammals, reptiles, amphibians, and insects. It plays a special role as a stopover for seasonal bird migrations. Every year, thousands of migratory birds stop here, including rare species listed in Ukraine’s Red Book and international conservation lists.

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Fauna of Dzharylgach Island. PHOTO: dzharylgach.com

The marine waters surrounding the island are also characterized by high biological productivity. They are home to a variety of fish, mollusks, and marine invertebrates, which form complex natural food chains.

Dzharylgach Lighthouse

The history of the Dzharylgach Lighthouse is linked to the development of maritime trade and shipping in the Black Sea basin. As maritime traffic increased in the 19th century, there arose a need to create a reliable system of navigational aids capable of ensuring the safe passage of ships regardless of weather conditions or time of day.

The lighthouse on Dzharylgach Island was built to address the numerous shoals that made navigation near the island dangerous. Its light signal helped ships navigate the coastal waters of the Black Sea more safely. Today, the lighthouse remains one of the symbols and most famous landmarks of Dzharylgach.

The structure’s architectural design combines functionality and durability, a characteristic feature of most lighthouses from that period. The structure was designed for long-term operation in a harsh marine environment, where constant exposure to moisture, salt, and strong winds places high demands on building materials and technical specifications. Over the course of its operation, the lighthouse has been modernized several times in line with advances in navigation technology.

A special place in the lighthouse’s history is held by the legend of its connection to the renowned French engineer Gustave Eiffel, whose name is primarily associated with the Eiffel Tower in Paris. According to a widely accepted account, the metal structure of the Dzharylgach Lighthouse was manufactured at a facility owned by Eiffel’s company, after which it was transported by sea to the island and assembled on site.

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Lighthouses on Dzharylgach Island. PHOTO: dzharylgach.com

In 1997, a new lighthouse was built on Dzharylgach Island, 50 meters from the old one and 200 meters from the seashore. This lighthouse was built because the old navigational structure was too close to the water and had reached the end of its service life.

Consequences of the Russian Occupation

Events in recent years have significantly affected the state of natural areas in southern Ukraine, including Dzharylgach. Following the Russian occupation of parts of the Kherson region, Dzharylgach’s ecosystem suffered due to military activities and interference with the natural landscape. The mining of certain areas, fires, water pollution, and disruption of natural processes have negatively affected the island’s condition.

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Dzharylgach during the Russian occupation. PHOTO: suspilne.media

The operating conditions for nature conservation institutions have changed, posing a threat to certain species of flora and fauna. Some nature conservation research was temporarily suspended, making it difficult to assess the extent of environmental changes. As experts note, the restoration of certain natural ecosystems could take many years.

Also, in 2023, according to the General Staff of Ukraine, the occupiers turned the island into a spit by connecting it to the “mainland” near the village of Lazurne. The territory is being used for military purposes.

Interesting Facts

  • Dzharylgach is often called the “Ukrainian Maldives.” Thanks to its snow-white sandy beaches, crystal-clear turquoise waters, and nearly untouched nature, the island has frequently been compared to exotic seaside resorts.
  • Many legends are associated with the island. Ancient Greek myths identify Dzharylgach with the island of Achilles, where, according to legend, the hero rested after his exploits. Another of the oldest legends about the island’s origin is connected with Iphigenia, a heroine of ancient Greek myths. According to the legend, while fleeing from Achilles’ pursuit, she ran toward the sea, and the goddess Artemis, in an attempt to save her priestess, poured a strip of sand in front of her. This is how a long sandbar came into being, which was later divided by the sea into the modern islands of Dzharylgach and Tendru.
  • Medieval Italian sailors marked Dzharylgach on their navigational charts as Insula Rossa—“Red Island.” The reasons for this name have not been definitively established. Some researchers associate it with the hues of the coastal waters at sunset, while others link it to the color of the local soil or vegetation, which took on reddish tones in the fall.
  • Throughout various historical periods, Dzharylgach served as a unique natural refuge for sailors. Thanks to its numerous sheltered coves, fishing boats and merchant ships could wait out bad weather here. Folklore preserves tales of Cossacks who used the island as a temporary stopover during their expeditions across the Black Sea.
  • At the bottom of the Karkinitsky Gulf, unique underwater “meadows” have formed—thickets of aquatic plants that are vital for the survival of many marine organisms. They serve as a natural “nursery” for fish, purify the water, and maintain the ecological balance of the coastal zone. The bay is also known for areas where rare species of algae and seagrasses thrive.

Юлія Сичова

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