Amazing South: natural treasure of Kherson region

The Nyzhniodniprovskyi National Park is a natural complex that covers a vast area from the former Kakhovka Hydroelectric Power Plant to the Dnipro-Bug Estuary. It stretches within the Beryslav, Holoprystan, Oleshky, Bilozersky districts of Kherson Oblast, and also includes parts of Kherson and Nova Kakhovka. The national nature park includes land with a total area of 80 thousand hectares. The Intent continues the series "Amazing South" with a story about this reserve.

"The Nizhnedniprovsky Nature Reserve began its existence as a nature conservation site on November 24, 2015. The issue of protecting and preserving the Nizhnedniprovsky floodplains, which are an integral part of the park, has been considered for more than 100 years. As early as 1924, an order of the People's Commissariat for Food of the Ukrainian SSR stated that a reserve of up to 45 square miles was established below the mouth of the Dnipro River with its branches at the confluence with the Dnipro-Bug Estuary. In 2009, Kherson State University developed a scientific justification for the creation of the Nyzhniodniprovskyi National Nature Park, and finally in 2015, the project was implemented.

Nyzhniodniprovskyi Park. PHOTO: unalib.ks.ua

The exceptional importance of the park has been recognized not only at the state level - it is considered one of the most valuable natural complexes of the floodplain-littoral type located in Europe. Back in 1995, a part of the park's territory was globally recognized as the Dnipro Delta Wetland of International Importance.

The park is based on the delta of the Dnipro River, the third largest river in Europe and the second largest in the Black Sea basin, which is characterized by significant biodiversity and is therefore of great importance for its conservation. Only in its lower reaches, from the former Kakhovka Dam to the Dnipro-Bug Estuary, has the river remained in its relatively natural state, and this area has been designated a national nature park. Rare and typical groups of floodplain forests, swamps, meadows, sandy steppes, steppe slopes and gullies, and rock outcrops have been preserved in this area and in the adjacent territories.

There are several zones on the territory of NNP Nizhnedniprovsky. For each zone, taking into account its environmental, health, scientific, recreational, historical, cultural and other values of natural complexes and objects, a differentiated regime is established for their protection, reproduction and use.

The park also includes such well-known tourist locations as the Adzhyhol lighthouses and the Kherson Mountains; the remains of the Tyahyn fortress near the village of Tyahynka in Beryslav district; and the Kamianska and Oleshkivska Sichs.

Many locations, such as Bobrovo Lake in Holoprystan district and Trubetskoy Waterfall, have suffered from Russian aggression and the undermining of the Kakhovka hydroelectric dam. But the park still attracts visitors with its uniqueness, sights, and diversity.

Nyzhniodniprovsky Plavni

The vegetation of the Dnipro River and its tributary, the Ingults, adds a fascinating variety to the green cover of the Kherson region. In the floodplains of these rivers, which are flooded annually by spring waters, unique ecosystems with a high level of biodiversity have historically formed - floodplains. The Dnipro floodplains are vast expanses of floodplain, numerous islands that are periodically flooded with water, and are richly cut by a complex intricate system of many lakes, channels, and ditches dominated by meadow and marsh vegetation, interspersed with specific, often sparsely populated forests - forests with low tree density.

The Dnipro floodplain crosses the territory of Kherson region from northeast to southwest in a wide strip, almost 10-20 kilometers long, dividing it into left-bank and right-bank parts. As a result of the construction of the Kakhovka hydroelectric power plant dam above the town of Nova Kakhovka, the floodplain was submerged by an artificial reservoir, so the area of the Dnipro floodplains has significantly decreased.

The highest parts of the Dnipro valley are the banks of the main channel, the coastal ridges that separate the river from large lowlands that are often flooded or swampy. The banks of minor channels are less elevated. The outer parts of the floodplain islands are usually higher than the middle parts. As the Dnipro riverbed approaches the Dnipro-Bug estuary, the islands sink lower and lower, and at the mouth of the Dnipro, the floodplains barely rise above the water surface, so they are often covered with water - "low water" - under the influence of southwesterly winds.

The Dnipro floodplains. PHOTO: wownature.in.ua

The floodplains are found along the entire course of the Dnipro River, stretching for 93 kilometers along the riverbed, so different areas of the floodplains were formed and developed in different conditions, and therefore you can see a variety of landscapes. The main part of the floodplains lies in the lower part of the Dnipro: from the destroyed Kakhovka Dam to the Dnipro Estuary. It is known that these floodplains coincide with the location of Velykyi Luh, a historical area once ruled by the Zaporizhzhia Sich, which has been flooded by the Kakhovka Reservoir since 1956. After the Russian invaders blew up the dam on June 6, 2023, Velykyi Luh regained its historical appearance and the Dnipro riverbed.

History of the Dnipro floodplains

According to scientists, the floodplain was formed during the last glaciation, 20-25 thousand years ago. The Black Sea was then a separate basin, and its water level was 30-40 meters lower than today. At that time, the Dnipro River dug a large hollow, which was occupied by floodplains. They were over 100 meters deep, over 100 kilometers long and up to 20-25 kilometers wide. The rocks of the Dnipro floodplains are composed of river sediments underlain by crystalline ancient rocks of the Precambrian stage of the earth's crust. Outcrops of crystalline rocks were observed near the Kamianska crossing and in other places.

TheDnipro floodplains were an excessively moistened terrace of the river valley. During floods, the floodplain turned into a continuous water space. The highest water level was observed in late April and early May, and the lowest in September and October. In the spring, the water spread over large areas, flooding them.

Some researchers believe that the floodplains originally stretched from Kyiv to the Dnipro Estuary. They have repeatedly saved the local population from foreign invaders. The favorable natural conditions and intricate labyrinths of the straits allowed people to hide from enemies. As a result, refugees from feudal oppression flocked here. In the 16th century, a permanent fortified settlement of the Cossacks, the Zaporozhian Sich, was established.

Kherson mountains. PHOTO: nppn.org.ua

In general, people's lives have been closely connected with the Dnipro floodplains since ancient times: at the sites of the primitive people who lived in this region in the Neolithic period, archaeologists have found the remains of various tools, including stone fish hooks and harpoon fragments, which indicates that fishing was widespread in these parts in ancient times. In the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, fish caught in local rivers were shipped to Kyiv and other regions.

Back in the days of the Sarmatians and chronicled Slavs, Pechenegs and Polovtsians, the Zaporizhzhia Army and the Katerynoslav province, the Dnipro floodplains were dense forests full of marsh vegetation, meadows and woodlands. In some places, they turned into sandbanks and open expanses of white sand.

From 1932 to 1975, during the creation of a number of hydroelectric power plants, a large area of the floodplains was flooded, along with the original nature, islands, lakes, and dozens of human settlements. Modern research confirms the assumption that the nature of the Dnipro floodplains was formed over many centuries and underwent periodic changes. It has changed repeatedly under the influence of climate fluctuations and other factors.

During the dry famine years, the vegetation of the Dnipro floodplains repeatedly saved many people from certain death. People used to make flour from the rhizomes of the common susak and bake bread. There was also a recipe: the rhizomes were cut into pieces, dried, ground, and a kind of drink was obtained, like a coffee substitute. In some places, fried rhizomes of this plant were eaten. Flour was also ground and bread was baked from the rhizomes of the common reed. And water nuts were boiled or baked on fire. The rhizomes of the yellow water lily were also used for food. They were taken out of the water by hand in shallow waters, and in deep places - with the help of boat barges. The collected rhizomes were cleaned, washed in water and cut into pieces. Then, to speed up drying, they were hung out in the open air, strung on twine.

Several names for the Dnipro floodplains have come down to us from ancient legends and chronicles. For example, the Greeks, namely Herodotus, called this historical area Gilea, the Goths called it the Murquid Forest, the Slavs called it Oleshshia, and the Zaporizhzhia Cossacks called it the Great Meadow.

Biodiversity of the Nizhnedniprovsky Park

The multi-tiered structure of the forest communities of the floodplains creates favorable conditions for the life of various species of animals and birds. The dense undergrowth of undergrowth creates many cozy, inaccessible corners for animals to live and rest, and places for birds to nest. The specificity of floodplain forests lies not only in the variability of the moisture regime over a short distance, but also in the mosaic of lighting conditions. Many of the most favorable, optimal habitats for various representatives of the flora and fauna are formed under the protection of strips of floodplain sparse forests. They provide the "edge effect" known in ecology. Its essence is that in the border zones of different habitats, in the park - forests and open meadows or marshlands, water areas, the species diversity of organisms increases dramatically. Such places are often chosen by songbirds and flowering plants, which add picturesqueness and color to the overall landscape picture of the floodplains.

The park plays a key role in preserving the biodiversity of the Dnipro lower reaches. According to the results of recent studies, a large variety of plants is concentrated on the territory of the Nizhnedniprovsky Nature Park: 820 species of higher vascular plants belonging to 425 genera and 112 families. The bioflora is represented by 16 species of bryophytes and 111 species of lichens. In addition, 21 species of lichenicolous fungi can be found in the park, most of which grow on lichens.

Some species of the park's flora and fauna are"Red Data Book" species, and there are also rare communities listed in the Green Book of Ukraine. This area is also rich in endemics - species of plants or animals that live exclusively within the geographical boundaries of this territory.

Due to the presence of aquatic ecosystems, the park's fauna is also extremely rich and diverse. The Dnipro Delta is an important migration route and stopping point for migratory birds. It is a nesting place for many species, including pelicans, herons, cormorants, and swans. About 90 species of mollusks and more than 65 species of fish, including commercial and rare species, live in the park's reservoirs. The floodplain forests and reeds are home to wild boars, roe deer, beavers, muskrats, and many other animals.

The damage done to the park's ecosystem by Russians through armed aggression

The park has suffered greatly from Russian aggression against Ukraine. According to official reports of the reserve's management, in the first year of Russia's full-scale invasion of Ukraine alone, 26 large-scale fires occurred on the territory of the lower Dnipro, covering a total area of 5462.45 hectares. This conclusion was reached by the park's scientists based on the analysis of Sentinel-2 satellite images.

Consequences of the Kakhovka HPP explosion. PHOTO: rubryca.com

Park staff noted that due to constant shelling by the aggressors, the use of remote sensing is now the only way to record the state of the ecosystem of the Nizhnedniprovsky National Nature Park, which guarantees the health and life of park employees. Regular fires in the floodplains caused by enemy shelling cause irreparable damage to the environment. It means the destruction of a large number of animals and plants in the park.

It was very difficult to control the fire in such areas even before the war, but now it is impossible. Nor is it possible to fully assess the extent of the damage caused to the ecosystem of the Kherson region by the Russian military. However, even without accurate data, it is clear that it will take a lot of time and effort to restore the protected area.

In general, according to the State Ecological Inspectorate of the Southern District, for the period from February 24, 2022, to early March 2026, the total amount of damage caused to the objects of the nature reserve fund of Kherson region exceeded UAH 1 trillion 1 billion 608 million.

The consequences of Russian aggression. PHOTO: ncirogozy.city

The institution's specialists continue to assess the environmental damage caused by armed aggression and active hostilities. Particular attention is focused on analyzing the state of the territories of the nature reserve fund of the Kherson region, where significant violations of natural ecosystems have been recorded. In particular, we are talking about the destruction of vegetation and massive deaths of animals within protected areas.

For the Kherson region, the war is not only about destroyed lives. It is also about large-scale environmental losses that have affected the unique natural areas of the region.

Disappeared waterfalls

For the Nizhniodniprovsky National Nature Park, the war was a test that the modern history of nature conservation had never known. The park's territories were subjected to mining, fires, and ecosystem destruction as a result of hostilities and man-made disasters. Flooding and changes in the hydrological regime after the explosion of the Kakhovka hydroelectric power station caused the transformation of floodplain landscapes, the death of wetlands, and the loss of bird nesting and fish spawning grounds.

For example, another type of damage caused by the actions of Russians in the NNP "Nyzhniodniprovskyi" is the disappearance of the so-called "waterfalls in the steppe", for example, the"Trubetskoy waterfall" near the village of Kozatske.

Steppe waterfalls. PHOTO: wownature.in.ua

While waterfalls in the Crimea and the Carpathians are commonplace, seeing them in the steppe, Kherson region, was considered a real miracle for many tourists. We are talking about springs flowing down the steep right bank of the Dnipro River, which form picturesque waterfalls. They appeared in the 70s of the last century. Such places are not really typical for the flat Kherson region. They stand out for their secrets, legends, and beauty. It is worth mentioning that numerous waterfalls appeared thanks to the waters of the Kakhovka Reservoir, which managed to make their way underground in soft limestone rock. The uniqueness of the waterfall lies in its location - it is located far beyond the mountain systems. Nearby were the ruins of Prince Trubetskoy's castle.

Unfortunately, Trubetskoy's waterfall disappeared after the Kakhovka hydroelectric power plant was blown up, as it was fed by the Kakhovka reservoir, which was almost completely empty. As a result of a sharp drop in water level by more than 10 meters in June 2023, the unique coastal ecosystem, including the waterfall, was destroyed. Currently, its functioning is critically disrupted.
Trubetskoy Waterfalls were a unique phenomenon for the steppe Kherson region, as they were partly of artificial origin - water flowed from the floodplain and the remains of old irrigation systems of Prince Trubetskoy's estate.

In total, there were at least 1,200 springs of various capacities on the territory of the Nizhnodniprovsky National Nature Park before the start of open armed aggression, all of which provided perfectly clean drinking water. Waterfalls were considered the most unusual natural phenomenon. All of them were single-cascade and were not much inferior to their mountain counterparts in terms of beauty. Some of them reached a height of 10 meters. Their distinguishing feature was their full-flowing throughout the year, regardless of snowmelt, rainfall and other natural phenomena. In winter, the waterfalls became incredibly beautiful, especially when they were exposed to the sun.

The natural ecosystem of Velykyi Luh is now being actively restored on the site of the former reservoir, overgrown with willow forest, but the cascading waterfalls that were the decoration of Kozatske are now lost.

The war affects not only infrastructure, but also natural connections, animal migration routes, water balance, and soil. The consequences of these processes will be felt for years.
However, even in the darkest times, nature has a powerful potential for recovery - if given a chance and provided with proper protection. Our task is to record the losses and make every effort to restore the territories damaged by the enemy.

Юлія Сичова